Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach

Pietro Scandura, Dominic Van der A, Joep van der Zanden, Carmello Petrotta, Carla Faraci, James Cooper, Simon Clark, Bjarke Eltard Larsen, Stefan Carstensen, David R. Fuhrman, Ivan Cáceres, Stuart McLelland, Guillaume Fromant, David Hurther, Gerben Ruessink, Joost Brinkkemper, Ming Li

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

Abstract

This paper shows preliminary results of experiments obtained in a large-scale wave flume under monochromatic waves plunging over a fixed bar. Velocity measurements were conducted using acoustic and optical instruments at 22
cross-shore locations ranging from the final part of the shoaling zone up to the inner surf zone. The measurements included the bottom boundary layer and the lower part of the water column and provided insights on the mean velocity distribution, turbulent velocity fluctuations and Reynolds stresses. The mean velocity is generally seaward directed. Magnitudes of the mean velocity are small in the shoaling region and increase above the bar crest, especially in the higher part of the water column, while magnitudes in the boundary layer are relatively small. Fluid from the inner surf zone is transported offshore by the undertow and pushed up near the shoreward face of the bar, thus partly feeding the onshore mass transport above trough level. This illustrates the occurrence of a large recirculation cell located just above the trough of the bar where currents and turbulent velocity fluctuations are strong.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18)
PublisherCoastlab
Publication statusPublished - 2018
Event7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science - Santander, Spain
Duration: 22 May 201826 May 2018

Conference

Conference7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science
Abbreviated titleCoastlab18
CountrySpain
CitySantander
Period22/05/1826/05/18

Fingerprint

wave breaking
beach
hydrodynamics
surf zone
trough
water column
undertow
optical instrument
benthic boundary layer
mass transport
acoustics
boundary layer
fluid
experiment

Keywords

  • breaking waves
  • surf zone
  • barred beach
  • turbulence
  • undertow

Cite this

Scandura, P., Van der A, D., van der Zanden, J., Petrotta, C., Faraci, C., Cooper, J., ... Li, M. (2018). Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach. In Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18) Coastlab.

Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach. / Scandura, Pietro; Van der A, Dominic; van der Zanden, Joep; Petrotta, Carmello; Faraci, Carla; Cooper, James; Clark, Simon; Eltard Larsen, Bjarke; Carstensen, Stefan; Fuhrman, David R.; Cáceres, Ivan; McLelland, Stuart; Fromant, Guillaume; Hurther, David; Ruessink, Gerben; Brinkkemper, Joost; Li, Ming.

Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18). Coastlab, 2018.

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

Scandura, P, Van der A, D, van der Zanden, J, Petrotta, C, Faraci, C, Cooper, J, Clark, S, Eltard Larsen, B, Carstensen, S, Fuhrman, DR, Cáceres, I, McLelland, S, Fromant, G, Hurther, D, Ruessink, G, Brinkkemper, J & Li, M 2018, Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach. in Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18). Coastlab, 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science, Santander, Spain, 22/05/18.
Scandura P, Van der A D, van der Zanden J, Petrotta C, Faraci C, Cooper J et al. Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach. In Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18). Coastlab. 2018
Scandura, Pietro ; Van der A, Dominic ; van der Zanden, Joep ; Petrotta, Carmello ; Faraci, Carla ; Cooper, James ; Clark, Simon ; Eltard Larsen, Bjarke ; Carstensen, Stefan ; Fuhrman, David R. ; Cáceres, Ivan ; McLelland, Stuart ; Fromant, Guillaume ; Hurther, David ; Ruessink, Gerben ; Brinkkemper, Joost ; Li, Ming. / Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach. Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18). Coastlab, 2018.
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title = "Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach",
abstract = "This paper shows preliminary results of experiments obtained in a large-scale wave flume under monochromatic waves plunging over a fixed bar. Velocity measurements were conducted using acoustic and optical instruments at 22cross-shore locations ranging from the final part of the shoaling zone up to the inner surf zone. The measurements included the bottom boundary layer and the lower part of the water column and provided insights on the mean velocity distribution, turbulent velocity fluctuations and Reynolds stresses. The mean velocity is generally seaward directed. Magnitudes of the mean velocity are small in the shoaling region and increase above the bar crest, especially in the higher part of the water column, while magnitudes in the boundary layer are relatively small. Fluid from the inner surf zone is transported offshore by the undertow and pushed up near the shoreward face of the bar, thus partly feeding the onshore mass transport above trough level. This illustrates the occurrence of a large recirculation cell located just above the trough of the bar where currents and turbulent velocity fluctuations are strong.",
keywords = "breaking waves, surf zone, barred beach, turbulence, undertow",
author = "Pietro Scandura and {Van der A}, Dominic and {van der Zanden}, Joep and Carmello Petrotta and Carla Faraci and James Cooper and Simon Clark and {Eltard Larsen}, Bjarke and Stefan Carstensen and Fuhrman, {David R.} and Ivan C{\'a}ceres and Stuart McLelland and Guillaume Fromant and David Hurther and Gerben Ruessink and Joost Brinkkemper and Ming Li",
note = "This work is part of the transnational access project HYBRID supported by the European Community’s Horizon 2020 Program through the grant to the budget of the integrated infrastructure initiative HYDRALAB+, Contract no. 654110. We are grateful to CIEMLAB staff Oscar Galego, Andrea Marzeddu, and Joaquim Sospedra for their technical support.",
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T1 - Hydrodynamics under Large-Scale Waves Breaking Over a Barred Beach

AU - Scandura, Pietro

AU - Van der A, Dominic

AU - van der Zanden, Joep

AU - Petrotta, Carmello

AU - Faraci, Carla

AU - Cooper, James

AU - Clark, Simon

AU - Eltard Larsen, Bjarke

AU - Carstensen, Stefan

AU - Fuhrman, David R.

AU - Cáceres, Ivan

AU - McLelland, Stuart

AU - Fromant, Guillaume

AU - Hurther, David

AU - Ruessink, Gerben

AU - Brinkkemper, Joost

AU - Li, Ming

N1 - This work is part of the transnational access project HYBRID supported by the European Community’s Horizon 2020 Program through the grant to the budget of the integrated infrastructure initiative HYDRALAB+, Contract no. 654110. We are grateful to CIEMLAB staff Oscar Galego, Andrea Marzeddu, and Joaquim Sospedra for their technical support.

PY - 2018

Y1 - 2018

N2 - This paper shows preliminary results of experiments obtained in a large-scale wave flume under monochromatic waves plunging over a fixed bar. Velocity measurements were conducted using acoustic and optical instruments at 22cross-shore locations ranging from the final part of the shoaling zone up to the inner surf zone. The measurements included the bottom boundary layer and the lower part of the water column and provided insights on the mean velocity distribution, turbulent velocity fluctuations and Reynolds stresses. The mean velocity is generally seaward directed. Magnitudes of the mean velocity are small in the shoaling region and increase above the bar crest, especially in the higher part of the water column, while magnitudes in the boundary layer are relatively small. Fluid from the inner surf zone is transported offshore by the undertow and pushed up near the shoreward face of the bar, thus partly feeding the onshore mass transport above trough level. This illustrates the occurrence of a large recirculation cell located just above the trough of the bar where currents and turbulent velocity fluctuations are strong.

AB - This paper shows preliminary results of experiments obtained in a large-scale wave flume under monochromatic waves plunging over a fixed bar. Velocity measurements were conducted using acoustic and optical instruments at 22cross-shore locations ranging from the final part of the shoaling zone up to the inner surf zone. The measurements included the bottom boundary layer and the lower part of the water column and provided insights on the mean velocity distribution, turbulent velocity fluctuations and Reynolds stresses. The mean velocity is generally seaward directed. Magnitudes of the mean velocity are small in the shoaling region and increase above the bar crest, especially in the higher part of the water column, while magnitudes in the boundary layer are relatively small. Fluid from the inner surf zone is transported offshore by the undertow and pushed up near the shoreward face of the bar, thus partly feeding the onshore mass transport above trough level. This illustrates the occurrence of a large recirculation cell located just above the trough of the bar where currents and turbulent velocity fluctuations are strong.

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KW - surf zone

KW - barred beach

KW - turbulence

KW - undertow

M3 - Conference contribution

BT - Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab18)

PB - Coastlab

ER -